Tuesday 10 September 2013

West of Darwin

We saved up our visit to Kakadu National Park until after we had left Darwin as we expected to spend a little time there.  It certainly offers some striking scenery and wonderful wildlife encounters that is always beautiful and worth the visit. However, in hindsight, we visited at the driest time of the year and it would have been so much greener just after the wet rather than just before.  The bonus for us was that there less water for the same amount of wildlife to gather in.  We spent time in town at Jabiru, at Yellow Waters, and at Gunlom, formerly Waterfall Creek where much of Croc Dundee 1 was shot). The Yellow Waters dawn cruise was spectacular with all forms of birdlife, countless crocodiles, and large very eatable barramundi swimming under the boat.  Gunlom has great swimming holes at both the top and bottom of the falls and we needed it as we had found some real summer weather by now.  Carol surprised herself and made it up to the top of the falls for sunset even though it was still above 40 degrees C.
Magpie Goose - arrive by the millions each year 

Kakadu flood plains from Ubirr Rock

Aboriginal Art in Kakadu - fantastic detail and the 400yo painting of a sailing ship seems to say Capt Cook was an also ran!! 

Yellow Waters dawn cruise

White Heron at sunrise

one of many waiting patiently for the tourist to fall out of the boat

so peaceful on the surface

still waters full of fish and entering the Kingfisher's habitat 

a couple obliged us with a view but they never settled long

soft colours

pool at the top of Gunlom Falls
This next part of our trip was exciting and new for us both.  We stocked up at Katherine and headed west towards the Kimberley Region.  The North West of Australia is so different to anything we had experienced previously and is such harsh country yet awe inspiring at the same time.  The rocky ridges, flat scrubby plains, hills, trees and rivers are all so interesting and still so remote.  Each day felt like nothing changed but during every day we were constantly looking at striking landscapes, huge boabs, or coming across magnificent rivers.  There is no doubt that iron ore mining is a big industry as trucks towing 2, 3 or 4 trailers are constant companions on the road.  

Kununurra is a mining town but is also at the centre of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme.  The green fields in such harsh country are a huge contrast.  Lake Argyle is an amazing engineering feat where a very small rock wall only 300m wide holds back a lake over 70kms long and 40km wide.  It is magnificent and full of crocs.  The infinity edge pool at the van park overlooking Lake Argyle is  a must see. El Questro Station is outside Kununurra and worth a visit.  Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing are the definition of remote townships but outside of Fitzroy Crossing are two of the most spectacular natural features we saw in Australia. Karajini Gorge up near the Gibb River Road and Tunnel Creek where a creek decided to cut through/under a limestone range instead of flowing around are two of nature’s marvels.
Zebeedee Springs on El Questro Station - an amazing oasis of warm mineral springs

Pentecost River cliffs from boat cruise on El Questro

Bungle Bungles with campground closed at the time due to bush fires

Carol and the Big Croc at Wyndham outside Kununurra

largest Boab Tree dwarfs Carol

Lake Argyle

"China Wall" outside Halls Creek - a naturally occurring wall of quartz remaining in place after the rest of the hill eroded.

Gieke Gorge in Fitzroy Crossing

large fossil in the limestone cliffs of Windjana Gorge - about 15cm high

my favorite photo of Windjana Gorge

amazing limestone formations hanging from the cave cut by Tunnel Creek - 750m long twisting cave

reflections inside Tunnel Creek cave/gorge

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